revdshepard

Junior Member
Well, here is my Mapex Falcon pedal with several mods/customizations.

I added a heel block to simulate wearing shoes with heels while playing. I bought a $12 US Yoga brick from Wal-Mart (made of UVA foam, very light, dense, and solid), then cut it to fit with a utility knife. I attached it to the heel plate with heavy-duty 3M double sided tape, then wrapped the whole thing with a little black Gorilla tape for good measure. It's very secure, and, if I ever do want to remove it, I can. I play mostly heel down, as I believe did most of the old jazzers. I once read an interview with Buddy Rich where he said he always played in a heeled shoe to get leverage on his pedals. Since I don't wear heeled shoes very often, I thought I'd put the heel on the pedal instead. It allows me to have the balance and stability of keeping my heels down, but provides more ankle pivot motion. I find it very comfortable, and, if I do need to lift my legs and play heel up, I still can.

20221215_162145.jpg

The toe stop has also been modified, as my size 13 foot kept sliding right over the top of it. I needed something very lightweight, yet strong to increase the height a good 1" or so. I thought about various different kinds of things I could use, and ended up with this. Those are actually two Legos glued together under the original toe stop and a hole drilled with a longer screw for the whole assembly. Lightweight, strong (Legos have a reputation for invincibility), and cheap (already had a bunch). Now my foot never slides past that point!

20221215_162042.jpg

I swapped out the chains that came with the pedal for some homemade straps, since I prefer the added smoothness and quiet of a strap drive. I used some 3/4" wide polyester strapping that I got from a place called Strapworks in Oregon. I ordered a couple of $1.00 US "grab bags" of various strap scraps, and after testing Nylon, Polypropylene and Polyester, went with the latter. I chose the blue as it sort of matches the accent paint on the footboards. It took me awhile to get nice, round, clean holes in the strapping, but I found that a soldering iron did the trick, making a clean hole, and cauterizing the fraying at the same time. I doubled the ends over where they attach to the pedals, and, since this material has better than 2,000 lb. tensile strength, I don't foresee any problems with breakage.

20221215_162106.jpg

Finally, I swapped the factory springs with some Pearl Eliminator springs I've had in my stick bag forever, as the original Mapex ones seemed a little too "spongy" for my taste.

The overall feel of this pedal is lighter, smoother, and for me, faster than it ever was, so for a minimal monetary investment, I get pedals that are just right for me.
 
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I’m not sure about the heel plate mod. Could have been a great way to “like” my previous DWs while eliminating the cheese grater. May have to try this and see. Had the Falcon. Loved the thing. Didn’t realize the springs weren’t up to snuff. I guess I never looked into them much. For some reason that pedal just doesn’t get much attention, but hands down one of the best I had.

I say had, because I sold it and the HH stand for the Yamaha CrossTown HW and 7210 pedal. A super cheap and light pedal with amazing feel, but ended up going back up to a flying dragon for no other reason than to have a double pedal option. For me it’d be a total toss up which have the better feel. Mapex has built an amazing pedal with the Falcon.
 
Yes, AzHeat (and btw, I'm from AZ myself. Don't live there anymore, but for many years. . .). The Falcon is certainly a well-made pedal, and out of the box smooth and solid, but somewhat heavier feeling than, say, my Pearl Eliminator. I found myself always having to think about what I was playing on it, rather than it just "being there" and responding to my foot. These mods have solved that issue for me. The springs weren't low quality, they just had a strange pull on them that caused the pedal to get quite a bit tighter at the end of the stroke, so there was an uneven feel from start to finish. These came with a rounded cam, no acceleration by design, so I wasn't sure why the stroke felt uneven. Anyway, the Pearl springs fixed that.
 
Cool mods! I'm inspired to mod, or at least change springs, on an 2000's Gibraltar Intruder pedal that I own. It's bulit like a tank and already strap drive, but "mushy springs" are probably why it's always felt sluggish.

I can't figure what else can possibly be adjusted to get rid of the sluggishness. Pedal adjustments have never been a strong suit of mine. (I'm using a new Speed King nowadays, with its own set of challenges.)
 
I love the look of that strap. I'm glad these are working for you!
 
Well, here is my Mapex Falcon pedal with several mods/customizations.

I added a heel block to simulate wearing shoes with heels while playing. I bought a $12 US Yoga brick from Wal-Mart (made of UVA foam, very light, dense, and solid), then cut it to fit with a utility knife. I attached it to the heel plate with heavy-duty 3M double sided tape, then wrapped the whole thing with a little black Gorilla tape for good measure. It's very secure, and, if I ever do want to remove it, I can. I play mostly heel down, as I believe did most of the old jazzers. I once read an interview with Buddy Rich where he said he always played in a heeled shoe to get leverage on his pedals. Since I don't wear heeled shoes very often, I thought I'd put the heel on the pedal instead. It allows me to have the balance and stability of keeping my heels down, but provides more ankle pivot motion. I find it very comfortable, and, if I do need to lift my legs and play heel up, I still can.

View attachment 128025

The toe stop has also been modified, as my size 13 foot kept sliding right over the top of it. I needed something very lightweight, yet strong to increase the height a good 1" or so. I thought about various different kinds of things I could use, and ended up with this. Those are actually two Legos glued together under the original toe stop and a hole drilled with a longer screw for the whole assembly. Lightweight, strong (Legos have a reputation for invincibility), and cheap (already had a bunch). Now my foot never slides past that point!

View attachment 128027

I swapped out the chains that came with the pedal for some homemade straps, since I prefer the added smoothness and quiet of a strap drive. I used some 3/4" wide polyester strapping that I got from a place called Strapworks in Oregon. I ordered a couple of $1.00 US "grab bags" of various strap scraps, and after testing Nylon, Polypropylene and Polyester, went with the latter. I chose the blue as it sort of matches the accent paint on the footboards. It took me awhile to get nice, round, clean holes in the strapping, but I found that a soldering iron did the trick, making a clean hole, and cauterizing the fraying at the same time. I doubled the ends over where they attach to the pedals, and, since this material has better than 2,000 lb. tensile strength, I don't foresee any problems with breakage.

View attachment 128028

Finally, I swapped the factory springs with some Pearl Eliminator springs I've had in my stick bag forever, as the original Mapex ones seemed a little too "spongy" for my taste.

The overall feel of this pedal is lighter, smoother, and for me, faster than it ever was, so for a minimal monetary investment, I get pedals that are just right for me.
Great job on the strap must feel alot smoother well done.
 
Cool mods! I'm inspired to mod, or at least change springs, on an 2000's Gibraltar Intruder pedal that I own. It's bulit like a tank and already strap drive, but "mushy springs" are probably why it's always felt sluggish.

I can't figure what else can possibly be adjusted to get rid of the sluggishness. Pedal adjustments have never been a strong suit of mine. (I'm using a new Speed King nowadays, with its own set of challenges.)
I have another pedal, a Pearl Eliminator, that's ~14 years old. I recently did the same heel riser, toe stop, strap, and new spring mods on it, but also replaced the bearings with good quality skateboard bearings. What a difference! These days, Pearl uses Ninja skateboard bearings in their top-tier pedals. I couldn't find anywhere to buy actual Ninja brand bearings, but there are tons of skateboard bearings on the market. I went with Bronson G3s (~$24 US for a set of 8), but Bones Red are good, and, for a few more $, Bones Swiss are considered excellent. I went with the steel ball type, as the ceramics are rather more expensive. You need to get a good bearing oil, as well, and I went with Bones Speed Cream. Before installing, I removed the plastic shields from each bearing and put a couple drops of oil in, then replaced the shields and spun them by hand to work it in. Those new bearings added ~10-12 "waggles" to the pedal's action (waggle=the back-and-forth movement of the pedal when you pull the beater back with your hand and let it go). Perhaps your Intruder could benefit from a bearing upgrade.
 
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