THE DRUM MODIFICATION THREAD.

Old Dog new Cans

Senior Member
Yes. That stuff is going to be hard coated somehow (baked, powder coated). Maybe a seriously aggressive wire wheel on a bench grinder could get it off. You aren't gonna dissolve it. Its gonna require force.

I would agree that it would probably take a huge amount of effort.

I will add though, I actually bought a project PDP nickel plated snare drum, and the plating was done so poorly, that the previous owner took some type of cleanser/cleaner and basically made it look like chrome. So, the quality of the painting or plating will definitely play a part.

With that said, it's only $30 🤷‍♂️
 

MrInsanePolack

Platinum Member
I would agree that it would probably take a huge amount of effort.

I will add though, I actually bought a project PDP nickel plated snare drum, and the plating was done so poorly, that the previous owner took some type of cleanser/cleaner and basically made it look like chrome. So, the quality of the painting or plating will definitely play a part.

With that said, it's only $30 🤷‍♂️
There is always a possibility. Just based on my experience building musical gear, that black coated stuff is super tough. Everyone uses it in one form or another, and it's definitely made to take abuse.

I'm of the opinion that $12 a lug is the more cost effective way to go. Buying the drum, disassembling it, stripping the lugs, chrome plating them, then installing them on the snare is going to cost more in time and $$$ than just buying new ones and installing them. And their new. Can't get any better than new.
 

Old Dog new Cans

Senior Member
There is always a possibility. Just based on my experience building musical gear, that black coated stuff is super tough. Everyone uses it in one form or another, and it's definitely made to take abuse.

I'm of the opinion that $12 a lug is the more cost effective way to go. Buying the drum, disassembling it, stripping the lugs, chrome plating them, then installing them on the snare is going to cost more in time and $$$ than just buying new ones and installing them. And their new. Can't get any better than new.
I definitely agree. Chances are good you would just, ruin them anyway. But, sometimes being cost effective works. Not always as I have found :rolleyes:
 

Stevedot2

Well-known member
Hey guys, looking for some advice with my snare mod project. I've become obsessed with tube lugs and die car hoops, and will stop at nothing to get my snare set up with them, haha.

Running into plenty of issues along the way, but finally have some lugs that fit (loosely, it'll be a fiddly job getting them all fixed on prefectly straight) and new tension rods (probably a tad too long in all fairness).

Now, I'm at the point where I can fit the new lugs. I have got one on there so far! But first, a few questions...

1. Will I need to increase the distance between the shell and the lugs? In other words add more, or bigger, washers between the lug and outside of the shell. Currently have used a thin rubber washer. You can see in the picture the tension rods are angled slightly inward towards the lug - should they be more straight for tube lugs?

2. I am planning to get some lithium grease for the lugs/rods is there anything I need to take into consideration, or anything else I need to do, as these are brand spanking new parts, ie fresh metal?

3. Should I lubricate the screws that fix the lugs to the shell? These are brand new too.

4. The screws holding the old lugs on had dome-shaped washers, which unfortunately don't fit with the new lug fittings. Instead I've used some leather washers that I got from a guy here in the UK (originally intended for tension rods). I can't think of any reason this would be an issue, anyone think otherwise?

5. Any tips for cleaning the shell once Ive taken off all the hardware? Damp cloth or some product too?


Thanks a lot. Will probably post a thread out just on here with some updates. Got chrome hardware (including die cast hoops [!!!]) on the way next week. First time I've done anything like this so it's quite exciting.
 

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SYMBOLIC DEATH

Senior Member
I'd get spacers under the lugs so the tension rods go straight into the lug. Tube lugs don't have swivel nuts like regular lugs, which allow for tension rod splay and you've got a little of that. With splay on tube lugs you have an increased chance of cross threading the tension rods in the lug, which will mess up the threads in the lug.
Whether or not you have too much splay currently, someone with more experience will have to comment about that. You may be fine as is, or it may not work. I just wanted to give you a heads up about the potential hazzard of splay and tube lugs.
 

MrInsanePolack

Platinum Member
1. Will I need to increase the distance between the shell and the lugs? In other words add more, or bigger, washers between the lug and outside of the shell. Currently have used a thin rubber washer. You can see in the picture the tension rods are angled slightly inward towards the lug - should they be more straight for tube lugs?
Yes. See SYMBOLICDEATH above about lug splay. It will ruin your shiny new lugs.

2. I am planning to get some lithium grease for the lugs/rods is there anything I need to take into consideration, or anything else I need to do, as these are brand spanking new parts, ie fresh metal?
Nope. The lithium grease should work well, as does teflon spray, 3n1 oil, a drop of motor oil, etc. Just keep in mind grease is goopy, oil runs, sprays are messy.

3. Should I lubricate the screws that fix the lugs to the shell? These are brand new too.
No. You dont want them vibrating loose and falling out. LocTite if you want, it isnt necessary because...

4. The screws holding the old lugs on had dome-shaped washers, which unfortunately don't fit with the new lug fittings. Instead I've used some leather washers that I got from a guy here in the UK (originally intended for tension rods). I can't think of any reason this would be an issue, anyone think otherwise?
...those dome things are called fender washers. They act as both a washer and a lock (supposedly) for the screw. The washer part I'm sure you get. It locks using pressure, it pushes against the screw as the screw pushes into it.

The leather washer should be fine until it dries out, cracks, and disintegrates. That's probably a long time from now.

5. Any tips for cleaning the shell once Ive taken off all the hardware? Damp cloth or some product too?
Not sure about phosphor bronze. Maybe cymbal cleaner. It is a very pretty shell.
 

Stevedot2

Well-known member
Yes. See SYMBOLICDEATH above about lug splay. It will ruin your shiny new lugs.



Nope. The lithium grease should work well, as does teflon spray, 3n1 oil, a drop of motor oil, etc. Just keep in mind grease is goopy, oil runs, sprays are messy.



No. You dont want them vibrating loose and falling out. LocTite if you want, it isnt necessary because...



...those dome things are called fender washers. They act as both a washer and a lock (supposedly) for the screw. The washer part I'm sure you get. It locks using pressure, it pushes against the screw as the screw pushes into it.

The leather washer should be fine until it dries out, cracks, and disintegrates. That's probably a long time from now.



Not sure about phosphor bronze. Maybe cymbal cleaner. It is a very pretty shell.
Thanks so much for the advice, that's really helpful. Good point about the leather washers, I hadn't thought about that.

Also cheers to symbolicdeath.
 

Warrenwood

Active member
While playing with my new vintage toys, I've been having a problem with snare buzz. DW Performance, 6.5x14. I was able to fix it by changing my reso tension, but then developed a horrible metal tone that I couldn't tune out. So finally I went old school...
IMG_0349.jpg


IMG_0350.jpg

IMG_0348.jpg

Let the teasing begin ;) ...
 

roncadillac

Member
While playing with my new vintage toys, I've been having a problem with snare buzz. DW Performance, 6.5x14. I was able to fix it by changing my reso tension, but then developed a horrible metal tone that I couldn't tune out. So finally I went old school...
View attachment 92456


View attachment 92457

View attachment 92458

Let the teasing begin ;) ...
I'm an advocate, I hate the fact they are no longer in most drums. That 'on the fly' muffling adjustment would have helped me on many of the differing stages I've played on (usually with no preemptive knowledge of the sound situation). I've meant to add one to many snares I've owned.
 
picked up an Acrolite locally for $65 a few days ago. the shell was kinda rough, so I did some sanding to give it a brushed aluminum look. it was missing the badge as well so I took one of a Rocker tom I had used for parts. after some cleaning all the chrome shines up nicely. happy with how this turned out!

IMG_8138.jpg
 

roncadillac

Member
picked up an Acrolite locally for $65 a few days ago. the shell was kinda rough, so I did some sanding to give it a brushed aluminum look. it was missing the badge as well so I took one of a Rocker tom I had used for parts. after some cleaning all the chrome shines up nicely. happy with how this turned out!

View attachment 92637
Wow, I love it! The brushed aluminum look along with the Black & White badge is fantastic. That IMO is a super classy drum, I'd have no issues pulling that out for even a 'black tie and brushes' kind of gig.
 

Stevedot2

Well-known member
Hey guys, I'm having a lot of difficulty removing this snare vent grommet. Any advice?
I've tried a small wrench on the inside nut but the whole grommet just turns with it. Have tried a few methods to hold the outer part still but it's still too tight and won't budge. I'm very limited with what tools I have and also don't want to risk bending the shell in any way.

Thoughts would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
 

Attachments

roncadillac

Member
Hey guys, I'm having a lot of difficulty removing this snare vent grommet. Any advice?
I've tried a small wrench on the inside nut but the whole grommet just turns with it. Have tried a few methods to hold the outer part still but it's still too tight and won't budge. I'm very limited with what tools I have and also don't want to risk bending the shell in any way.

Thoughts would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
The only thing I can suggest is if you have needle nose pliers to stick them (closed) into the whole from the outside then GENTLY open them to give counter pressure on the inside of the grommet then use your wrench on the nut... It may be just enough pressure to break the nut loose. It looks like a metal shell? If so try a few drops of wd40 or even olive oil in the inside of the shell to try and lubricate the threads
 

MrInsanePolack

Platinum Member
Hey guys, I'm having a lot of difficulty removing this snare vent grommet. Any advice?
I've tried a small wrench on the inside nut but the whole grommet just turns with it. Have tried a few methods to hold the outer part still but it's still too tight and won't budge. I'm very limited with what tools I have and also don't want to risk bending the shell in any way.

Thoughts would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
I dont know if this will work, it might. Shove a stick in the hole from the outside. With a socket or nut driver, you can push the stick and socket/driver together while turning.

The above mentioned needle nose pliers might work too.

If it was me, I would crush the grommet to get it out and just get a new one. Some things are just easier to replace than try to save.
 
Hey guys, I'm having a lot of difficulty removing this snare vent grommet. Any advice?
I've tried a small wrench on the inside nut but the whole grommet just turns with it. Have tried a few methods to hold the outer part still but it's still too tight and won't budge. I'm very limited with what tools I have and also don't want to risk bending the shell in any way.

Thoughts would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
This may help . You can also use a tapered dowel . I think it was Bermuda ? Or maybe Andy ? That made a simple tool to take it off and a similar tool as in the video to replace one but I couldn’t find it on a search here . The idea is using pressure from inside the shell to straighten the rolled over edge .

 

Stevedot2

Well-known member
Cheers guys. I have a really old set of pliers and have tried putting a wide rubber band round the tip and holding them open while trying to turn the inner nut at the same time. Seems to be on pretty tight. Also seems like a pretty stupid design tbh.
Might try it with some oil, otherwise I guess the options will be break /damage it to get it out of just leave it. It's not a huge deal but just something I'd like to change.
 
Cheers guys. I have a really old set of pliers and have tried putting a wide rubber band round the tip and holding them open while trying to turn the inner nut at the same time. Seems to be on pretty tight. Also seems like a pretty stupid design tbh.
Might try it with some oil, otherwise I guess the options will be break /damage it to get it out of just leave it. It's not a huge deal but just something I'd like to change.
it certainly is a goofy looking badge. not sure I've ever seen one of them.
 
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