BTW my experience comparing the Star and Starphonic bubingas has me more convinced than ever about the impact of design elements (bearing edges, vents, etc.) over shell materials.
Yeah, they talking about both hardness and weight (and with weight, you can translate to density in a volume)...Bubinga has both so kinda hard to isolate those two factors alone. You have a bubinga (I'm using the wallpaper now!), is the weight factor obvious as described compared to something similar? Mother nature is tricky though, janka hardness and density are not always directly proportional as seen w/ maple and walnut, there is that host of grain strength and probably a bunch of other properties within the wood that I'm sure builders or woodworkers here could comment on much better. I can't confirm this but if we are saying the mass of the hardware on the shell has an impact, one would think the less dense shells would have more influence w/ hardware differences (lug weight, lug size, # of lugs, hoop type, etc.), just the percent differential is going to be more impactful ratio-wise. Good question on whether hardness alone translates to workability, I imagine there are many factors.Indeed. It points to density, which is where one can begin to consider the physics of energy transfer from the head to the shell, and how that entire system (shell, heads, hardware) emanates acoustic energy.
Wood density affects the tone of a drum shell, but how? If you read Tama’s description, would you agree?
Also consider: is a harder wood more difficult to work with?
In one of my previous posts, I include a graphic with the density spec.You have a bubinga (I'm using the wallpaper now!), is the weight factor obvious as described compared to something similar?
Wow! That is quite the setup. The lift (? What do you call this?) is impressive in itself. That small sun looks like something to behold also.Here’s the photo setup for the bubinga wallpaper.
It’s called a “camera stand” and I can push a shutter button or set a timed shutter release (2 or 10 seconds) or a cable release or use a phone/tablet app* or via USB cable to computer.Wow! That is quite the setup. The lift (? What do you call this?) is impressive in itself. That small sun looks like something to behold also.
But what I really wanna know is...
...do you still have to stick your hand in there and push the button?
I listened a lot to any Star kit as it's for me the summum to what you could make with a wood, accessories etc, the research put into it is crazy. But walnut was definitely too low for me. The bubinga was really appealing at first but anytime I hear the Map!e, I come back at it, it's like an old grandma who had always been in your life, you have experienced some other trying in life but it's what has been imprinted in your would for a long time.I was all about Bubinga for a while. Loved the look of it. Played a Star Bubinga next to a Mapex Walnut and though in the same room with similar heads, the walnut seemed warmer to my ears. Being that I was still all into Bubinga, I managed to find a Starphonic Bubinga snare. The excitement wore off fairly quick. I just couldn't get into the snare. Head change after head change and none of the heads gave it the body I was looking for. It was always muted. If you love your Bubinga snare, then you'll likely love the Star Bubinga the same. Beautiful kit.
If I was still playing smaller venues I would have kept my Bibinga snare. It was definitely more "polite" for that application. The Star kit was the same. It was just a bit too subdued for my liking. Walnut definitely had more presence. My current kit is Maple/Poplar, so way softer than Bubinga as a reference. I'd likely be all over the Bubinga kit if I had a studio. They seem far easier to tame. My snare sure was.