Sound proofing - feedback on my plan

Maryborough Matt

New Member
Hi All, I'm looking for knowledgeable opinions on sound "proofing" a room. Or rather, substantially muting a room - rather than build another room inside the room, I want to just treat the room itself at this point.

I want some advice on my plan, so I don't waste my money and time.

Situation:
-I'm a drummer at the edge of a rural town (Australia).
-I gave up the beginning of a professional music career when young, and last year took up the drums again with something of the old passion. I own my own home, and I'm going to dedicate this room to music. 3.4 X 3.4 metres.
-Play my acoustic kit for an hour or two most afternoons, plus after 7pm I do technical practice on a muted kit, and after 10pm an electronic one.
-I'm more a soul, jazz, blues, folk musician than a loud rocker. So we're talking moderate drumming volume.
-I have only one immediate neighbour, otherwise it's bush or acearage properties who can't hear me. So it's really about keeping peace with that one neighbour. They've never complained, however they refuse to speak to me (or any other neighbour) so I can't just communicate with them. I'm taking proactive steps to keep the peace (plus I suspect they could turn full bogan) - I know I have certain rights, but this is about diminishing risks and so feeling free and relaxed as I play. And more able to play the acoustic kit in the evenings, within reason.
-Doing the work myself, I can blow a grand or two, but not significantly more at this time. I'm certainly no tradie, but I have basic skills, and I'm surrounded by handy people.
-1940s owner-built house, mud brick walls about a foot thick, concrete floors, original corrugated iron roof. The ceiling is thin plywood.

Plan:
-Block the window: acoustic batt against the glass, then solid piece of wood drilled into the window frame, with something to seal the gaps (strips of mass loaded vinyl (MLV) or acoustic silicone).
-Treat the door - probably cover with MLV and use the same to create a seal. There's also room to hang a second door if needed. The door opens into a small hallway which is sealed by other doors.
-Treat the ceiling. Now this is the big one. With a concrete floor and thick mud walls, it's the thin ceiling which lets the noise out, I'm sure. And no doubt that chamber up there - of wood framing and corrugated iron - is terrible for letting the noise out. I'll replace the thermal batts in the roof with acoustic ones. But my main plan is to line the ceiling inside the room with mass loaded vinyl. Using MLV (mass loaded vinyl) tape and acoustic silicone to seal the MLV sheets with themselves and against the walls just below the cornices. I'm particularly interested in what you think of this - it's the expensive bit. I'd also consider layering MLV over the framework and batts up in the ceiling as a second layer, however I couldn't fully seal that layer as I get yearly termite attacks, so the framework work needs always to be open to inspection and potentially treatment. I guess I could layer it under the batts, cut to size, or do the same with something else? I should add, regarding other options up there, that I'm in a bushfire prone area with an old roof, so despite all my work I expect embers inside the roof (I'm geared up and determined to stay and defend, including within the ceiling, but that's a factor to consider).
-Following all this I'll then look at sound absorption inside the room.

I find that most of the online advice assumes a wooden house. Any thoughts on what I plan to do, or if I should do things differently? Especially before a blow $600 on MLV for the interior of the room. Does this plan seem like it will be effective in substantially muting the drums to the outside world? Should I be including other things, line a floating floor/platform for the drums, or some lining under the carpet?

Thanks,
Matt
 

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Supergrobi

Technical Supervisor
Staff member
I think the plan regarding the window is decent. I'd go for a second door, it will reduce much more than having a second layer of whatever on the first one. About the ceiling - adding more mass wouldn't help as much as having a second ceiling a few centimeters beneath the original one, filling the gap with rock wool. The construction shouldn't make any contact (well, the least possible) to the walls / existing ceiling. Since it's just 3.4m this might even be doable without having any connection to the ceiling.

cutout_118232_standard_teaser_1.jpg


Don't mount the profiles to the walls directly but put some foamy stuff underneath to reduce vibrations transferred between the new ceiling and the walls. Carpet is okay, this works pretty well, too:

iu


Here's some more general information I've noted down once. Here's a more recent video than the one in the post:

 

cbphoto

Platinum Member
There are some really great elastomer products out there now. I don’t know what’s available in Oz though.


This model is the “Peacemaker”. Apropos for you:


peacemaker-soundproofing-underlayment-install.jpg
 

Maryborough Matt

New Member
Thanks guys, helpful advice. Alongside the window and door, I'm thinking of keeping it simple and affordable: having a layer of mass loaded vinyl as a second lower ceiling, with rockwool between it and the original ceiling. Obviously I'll need some minimal framework to nail the MLV to, but the main idea is for the MLV to be mostly limp. Not the prettiest solution, but I don't care about that. From my reading it seems that limp MLV is the most effective. What do you think?
 

Supergrobi

Technical Supervisor
Staff member
I don't know about the prices in the US, but over here using sound optimized drywall is the more affordable choice. I don't have any numbers on MLV about sound proofing, so I can't tell if it's as effective as a heavy drywall.
 

Maryborough Matt

New Member
MLV is considerably more than standard drywall, at least, but still within my budget (about $700 AUD to cover the ceiling). It has an stc rating of 27, which apparently is good, and it is apparently much better at dealing with bass frequencies than drywall. I've also read that if you simply layer it against drywall it loses some of its efficacy, as opposed to being limp and thereby dissipating more vibration within itself, hence my intention to have it as the final ceiling.
 
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