How do you clean your hardware?

alex.56 said:
That's bad, so you've never managed to remove dust, hadn't you?
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The kit wasn’t new when I bought it, but there was only minor spots of rust. Being only 10, I never even considered that I’d have to baby it like an old car. Within a few years the steel had simply blistered through the chrome, which would just flake off when I took a rag to it.
 
rhumbagirl said:
I've used chrome polish on my hardware, as well as car wax on the shells. I haven't cleaned a cymbal in ages. Brass polish isn't the tool anymore, given the protective coating on the newer cymbals. Most of my drums are in both hard and soft cases. I'm a weekend warrior, when I have a gig which is rarely these days, so my cleaning regimen is a bit less than others.
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I haven't cleaned a cymbal too, and I don't think I will bc if I fail it may changes sound and gets ruined. I also have drum cases, but i used to have gig near the sea and probably for this reason my kit is dirty. Thx
 
alex.56 said:
I agree with you, WD40 it's good but it doesn't remove rust, for the tension rods I use white lithium grease, but I have vaseline too so this time I'm gonna use it. Thank youu a lot!
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I use a drop of light machine oil (10W) on the tip of the rod.
 
rhumbagirl said:
Yet another member category - "Active Member". Anyone know what that means?
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Different Member Levels

I'm kind of curious. I obviously can see what different member levels there are by looking at those given to different people who post. So I've seen these levels Member Junior Member Senior Member Well Known Member Silver Member Gold Member Platinum Member There may be others but those are...
www.drummerworld.com
 
cbphoto said:

Different Member Levels

I'm kind of curious. I obviously can see what different member levels there are by looking at those given to different people who post. So I've seen these levels Member Junior Member Senior Member Well Known Member Silver Member Gold Member Platinum Member There may be others but those are...
www.drummerworld.com
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So Alex.56 is a couple of posts away from "Well Known" status. Something tells me one's metabolism decreases once they transition away from "Active". Also interesting, Alex.56 can remain "Active" forever if he goes completely IN-active. LOL
 
rhumbagirl said:
So Alex.56 is a couple of posts away from "Well Known" status. Something tells me one's metabolism decreases once they transition away from "Active". Also interesting, Alex.56 can remain "Active" forever if he goes completely IN-active. LOL
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Probably yes, I can. As I saw in that thread there's a lot of confusion on these tags.
 
Oh with the last comment I became a Well-known member. So if I spam lots of comments I can get the first title? XD ??
 
alex.56 said:
Oh with the last comment I became a Well-known member. So if I spam lots of comments I can get the first title? XD ??
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I have no clue on what determines the member levels. Junior seems like the logical next step for you, although I don't know at what post level that is. It's possible that membership duration is a factor as well. Like maybe you have to be a member for a year before you can be considered Senior, regardless how many posts you have? Anyway, the top level is Platinum and all the members I've seen with this one have 1000's of post on their sleeve.
 
rhumbagirl said:
I have no clue on what determines the member levels. Junior seems like the logical next step for you, although I don't know at what post level that is. It's possible that membership duration is a factor as well. Like maybe you have to be a member for a year before you can be considered Senior, regardless how many posts you have? Anyway, the top level is Platinum and all the members I've seen with this one have 1000's of post on their sleeve.
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I have 45 posts, but yeah I'agree with you: it's not clear
 
For the hoops:

Clean them. Dry towel, followed by moist towel followed by dry towel.
Remove pits and rust. Water + Aluminum foil followed by a dry towel.
Protect them. Add a surface barrier. Whether it be wax, a poly mist, grease, whatever. You need a barrier between the air and the steel.

The steel hardware.
Clean them. Dry towel, followed by moist towel followed by dry towel.
Remove the rust. WD40 is fine for a tiny amount of surface rust. If the rust is significant, you will need vinegar/baking-soda/water baths.
Protect them. Add a surface barrier.
 
alex.56 said:
I have 45 posts, but yeah I'agree with you: it's not clear
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Interesting that the more posts you accrue, the less stature you receive:

Active - hey you're moving, staying healthy, losing weight even
Well-known - you're sleeping around
Junior - you don't know which way is up
 
Look at the photos in this thread( post #15 and #19) of my 68 Ludwig Supra and my 70’s Ludwig chrome o wood toms done with foil and water . The Supra shell itself had some rust , hoops were worse with the strainer and throw off being the worst . The toms weren’t much better . They came out great and far better than I expected ????. You’ll be pleasantly surprised with the results ??

Restoring my first vintage snare!

Hey everyone! So this afternoon I purchased my first vintage snare, a 68’ Supra from my local music store that had bought it from a school that no longer had a use for it. Now, the shell itself has quite a bit of pitting and needs some cleaning so I was wondering what you all use for that...
www.drummerworld.com
 
I use Windex for light cleaning of chrome. For heavy cleaning/rust, I use Noxon 7 Metal Polish, or, Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. Then I might go over it with car wax if I have time. I try to stay away from harsh methods such as steel wool when dealing with rust.

www.homedepot.com

12 oz. Noxon Metal Polish-001173 - The Home Depot

Enjoy the Noxon 12 oz. Metal Polish 001173, easy to use also helps remove tarnish from The Home Depot
www.homedepot.com
 
KamaK said:
For the hoops:

Clean them. Dry towel, followed by moist towel followed by dry towel.
Remove pits and rust. Water + Aluminum foil followed by a dry towel.
Protect them. Add a surface barrier. Whether it be wax, a poly mist, grease, whatever. You need a barrier between the air and the steel.

The steel hardware.
Clean them. Dry towel, followed by moist towel followed by dry towel.
Remove the rust. WD40 is fine for a tiny amount of surface rust. If the rust is significant, you will need vinegar/baking-soda/water baths.
Protect them. Add a surface barrier.
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Thank you!!! What do you use to protect'em?
 
Dust and fingerprints are the debil. Not because they're ugly but because they could lead to more problematic . . . . . problems. I try to keep everything dusted and fingerprint free. I don't actually clean anything except my pedals. And I try to keep tension rods lubed.
 
alex.56 said:
Thank you!!! What do you use to protect'em?
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Ultimately, anything is better than nothing.

If I have no time or ambition, I'll grab a zip-lock sandwich bag, toss the tension rods in, douche blast with WD40, and jostle them about like i'm making shake-n-bake.

Poly mist is something you do if you have a paint/finish booth already set up. Zildjian does this on their shiny cymbals. This is not something you can do well with a rattle-can. I might consider this for those old-school lugs that run the full length of the drum or a hoop, but not for the tension rods. Best for large pieces. Not something you'd use for mechanical/threaded parts.

Neutral waxes, such as many automotive waxes, also work. There's a bit of a labor requirement and it can be messy.

Most time, I will use a rag and a neutral petroleum. I used "3-in-1" brand hinge oil last time I de-rusted tension rods.
 
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