@type85
I'm trying the clear coat very soon on some B15s and a some B8 cymbals.
Thanks for all that research, documentation, and videos you've made.

Have you tried automotive ceramic coating by any chance? Would it be too brittle and break under stick? I think it may; but might be worth experimenting.

Enjoying the videos BTW. Thank you 👍😁
 
I've never boughten cymbol polish and i was just wondering what's the best polish to get and if there's and specail technique to use when polishing it. Thanks.
Dont use polish use scotchpad and follow the grooves with some pink stuff or washing up liquid..not too much pressure..dry afterwards.
 
Okay. Did the clear coat treatment today on a Paiste B15 16" Sound Formula Crash.

- Use Bar Keeper's Friend Cream with non abrasive pad and with a soft cloth.
- Rinse with water thoroughly.
- Dry thoroughly.
- Use IPA to clean and prep surface.
- Mix a 50/50 Lacquer thinners with Clear coat.
- Use a Vice with a cordless screwdriver, with a cheap 1/4 hex polisher kit from local hardware store. (use the shaft from the polisher kit)
- Use cloth to apply to cymbal while it spins using the cordless drill stuck in the vice.
- Wait and hour, apply another coat.
- Wait 24 hours... Done!

I'll see how this goes.
Thank you @type85 for ALL the awesome research, resource and documentation.

IMG_20230916_164404802-1.jpgIMG_20230916_164443094-3.jpgIMG_20230916_164418220-2.jpg
 
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Okay. Did the clear coat treatment today on a Paiste B15 16" Sound Formula Crash.

- Use Bar Keeper's Friend Cream with non abrasive pad and with a soft cloth.
- Rinse with water thoroughly.
- Dry thoroughly.
- Use IPA to clean and prep surface.
- Mix a 50/50 Lacquer thinners with Clear coat.
- Use a Vice with a cordless screwdriver, with a cheap 1/4 hex polisher kit from local hardware store. (use the shaft from the polisher kit)
- Use cloth to apply to cymbal while it spins using the cordless drill stuck in the vice.
- Wait and hour, apply another coat.
- Wait 24 hours... Done!

I'll see how this goes.
Thank you @type85 for ALL the awesome research, resource and documentation.

View attachment 138800View attachment 138801View attachment 138802
Wow!!!

That is amazing!

You are the 1st one brave enough to try it!

After letting some of the cymbals sit for several months I found I didn't apply a thick enough coat, not the end of the world, better too thin than too thick!
What happened was the coating didn't get down to the bottom of the lathing grooves, they are pretty deep on 602's so you may not have that issue with a signature.

PS, I have only applied one coat.
 
I did try the "last coat" which supposedly is a ceramic coating, it didn't do crap and the cymbals started to oxidize in less than 24 hours........

1694924403610.png
@type85
I'm trying the clear coat very soon on some B15s and a some B8 cymbals.
Thanks for all that research, documentation, and videos you've made.

Have you tried automotive ceramic coating by any chance? Would it be too brittle and break under stick? I think it may; but might be worth experimenting.

Enjoying the videos BTW. Thank you 👍😁
 
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Wow!!!

That is amazing!

You are the 1st one brave enough to try it!

After letting some of the cymbals sit for several months I found I didn't apply a thick enough coat, not the end of the world, better too thin than too thick!
What happened was the coating didn't get down to the bottom of the lathing grooves, they are pretty deep on 602's so you may not have that issue with a signature.

PS, I have only applied one coat.
Thanks type85. :)

The label on the clear coat I used said 2 coats; so just out of doing it as per manufacturers instructions, I did 2 coats.
I wondered this morning having let the cymbal dry overnight if 2 was too much. My own observation of the cymbal this morning, and what you said seem to think 2 coats is "just right".

I also did a B20 Sabian Hi-Hat top cymbal at the same time, and this turned out nicely as well.
 
I did try the "last coat" which supposedly is a ceramic coating, it didn't do crap and the cymbals started to oxidize in less than 24 hours........

View attachment 138851

Thanks for this reply.

I have done some reading on this automotive product. (FYI, I am an automotive protection enthusiast and am pedantic about my vehicles).
This product is not really a "true" ceramic coating. It contains Si02/Ceramic but it's application and curing times are not what a "true" ceramic coating on a vehicle would be. Professionally/Correctly applied ceramic coatings on vehicle take 24 hours to cure. The Last Coat takes 5 minutes or so, (in my brief research).

A True Ceramic Coating...
My thoughts are it would be too brittle under stick and would leave marks and shatter. Ceramic coatings come in very small bottles (30mls, 50mls, and not much bigger than that). I've seen glass-like shards of dried up ceramic coating around the screw cap and bottle top of the unused ceramic coating. Hence why all microfibre cloths and applicators are discarded after use. (once dried, these cloths and applicators are full of glass-like shards that will scratch paint).
It is the reason why I think it may shatter under stick.
For giggles I may experiment. I detail and ceramic coat vehicles regularly. I have plenty of ceramic coating laying around.
 
Thanks type85. :)

The label on the clear coat I used said 2 coats; so just out of doing it as per manufacturers instructions, I did 2 coats.
I wondered this morning having let the cymbal dry overnight if 2 was too much. My own observation of the cymbal this morning, and what you said seem to think 2 coats is "just right".

I also did a B20 Sabian Hi-Hat top cymbal at the same time, and this turned out nicely as well.
I have been using "protect a clear" cut with 30-50% lacquer thinner..

Specifically made for bare metals stainless, aluminum, brass, copper, bronze etc.
It dries very quickly, you can handle the cymbal within 15 min of coating.
I try to apply as thin a coat as possible to keep it from affecting the sound of the cymbal, of cours a 24" heavy will not be affected nearly as much as an 8" splash.
 
HIRED!!!! I will be sending my 34 cymbals to your place to be cleaned and pressed.....
I can arrange that, if you want to ship a few of them to me, I will clean them for free (and apply a clear coat)!
My zip is 91602 if you want to calculate shipping...............
 
I can arrange that, if you want to ship a few of them to me, I will clean them for free (and apply a clear coat)!
My zip is 91602 if you want to calculate shipping...............

man, if I could drive them there, I would take you up. but I don't trust shipping. Not with my prized plates!

BUT, the wife and I are planning many road trips in the next few years, and Route 66 out to Cali is one, so maybe I will bring them along and meet you on the pier!!
 
Backside of the above China Type is completely stripped back to bare bronze. It has a heavy patina with zero shine. I used Barkeepers Friend liquid and gave it a good scrub. While the grime and tarnish was removed the 'natural' finish remains. (no shine). It very much reminds me of natural finish UFIP's or Zildjians. I'm okay with this. Photos later when dried.

Edit. Photos
 
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Backside of the above China Type is completely stripped back to bare bronze. It has a heavy patina with zero shine. I used Barkeepers Friend liquid and gave it a good scrub. While the grime and tarnish was removed the 'natural' finish remains. (no shine). It very much reminds me of natural finish UFIP's or Zildjians. I'm okay with this. Photos later when dried.

Edit. Photos

I use blue magic to bring back the shine!

1698942384167.png

1698942444424.png
 
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Thank you. Was wondering if you had a trick for this issue.
Barkeepers' and Flitz tarnish spray to get rid of the corrosion and tarnish, usually the surface is very clean but flat and dull, sometimes rough from the corrosion eating away at the alloy. Blue magic to bring back the shine, I usually will apply it in two stages to make sure the cymbal is not too shiny and polished looking.

Here's an unfinished video from a project I'm working on, Various stages of cleaning and maintenance (removing fleabites/edge damage):
 
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@type85 Just saw the latest video from you.

I had a fleabite on my 20" Big Beat. Your video was timely, and gave me confidence to try and minimise it. Did similar to you and coated it afterwards. Done. Thank you.

(Side note. The 2002 Black Big Beats have a black faux colouring/treatment applied to them. One has to be very careful when working on these as to not remove some of the treatment/finish.
I'd say many cymbals that have that treatment would be th same. Think, 900 series, newer Meinl Pure Alloys, etc)
 
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