What would you change about a drum brand?

DW- You're great, but I'm not sure you're all you're cracked up to be. I've heard gross sounding DWs, and Pearl Exports that sound as good as the best DWs. So what makes you worth the extra thousand bucks?

What about heads, tuning, sticks, room acoustics, PLAYER?
 
What about heads, tuning, sticks, room acoustics, PLAYER?

Exactly my point. I posit that the only reason DWs generally sound better than, say, a Pearl Export is that the player on the DW GENERALLY has been playing longer and thus is more willing to make the larger investment. This more experienced player will generally have a better idea of the sound he wants and how to achieve that sound. His expensive kit will also generally be surrounded by high end accessories (how many D-Dubs do you see surrounded by B8Pro cymbals?), which serve to further enhance the sound.

I know a DW player who changes his batter heads once a month, and his resos almost as often. Of COURSE his set will sound better than the guy who's been beating on the same heads for 3 years, regardless of the make of the shells.

DW drums sound different, no question, but I'm not convinced that they're worth the extra ca$h... which is why I play GMS instead.
 
Exactly my point. I posit that the only reason DWs generally sound better than, say, a Pearl Export is that the player on the DW GENERALLY has been playing longer and thus is more willing to make the larger investment. This more experienced player will generally have a better idea of the sound he wants and how to achieve that sound. His expensive kit will also generally be surrounded by high end accessories (how many D-Dubs do you see surrounded by B8Pro cymbals?), which serve to further enhance the sound.

I know a DW player who changes his batter heads once a month, and his resos almost as often. Of COURSE his set will sound better than the guy who's been beating on the same heads for 3 years, regardless of the make of the shells.

DW drums sound different, no question, but I'm not convinced that they're worth the extra ca$h... which is why I play GMS instead.

I like GMS lugs better, and those white ash drums.
 
I thought about how much I like some kits, but can't get past some features found on some kits. If I could, I'd change the following:

DW: Downsize the lugs, by about 1/2. They are (IMO) too huge

Pearl: Downsize the tom arms. Again, huge...Downsize the square rack, and make it with a smoother surface. (lower visual profile)

Ludwig: better double tom stands. They don't hold large toms well at all.

Tama: more finishes for bubinga drums (Including b/b), maybe an affordable wrap

Trick: offer machined pedal beater with more weight than the small beater they offer.

Ludwig: PERMANENT wraps, like they did in the 1970's, ever try to remove black cortex from the 1970's?? Yeah, it should be THAT well glued!! When I buy a kit I want it to STAY together and not have to be re-wrapped because the wrap fell off or split. That's BUSH league man!! That stuff is WAY too expensive for the wrap to fall off in a few years.

Check the attachment~ made in 1999, they should last 30 years before a HINT of the wrap having a problem shows up!!!! HACKERS!!

Damn shame!!
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Ludwig: PERMANENT wraps, like they did in the 1970's, ever try to remove black cortex from the 1970's?? Yeah, it should be THAT well glued!! When I buy a kit I want it to STAY together and not have to be re-wrapped because the wrap fell off or split. That's BUSH league man!! That stuff is WAY too expensive for the wrap to fall off in a few years.

Check the attachment~ made in 1999, they should last 30 years before a HINT of the wrap having a problem shows up!!!! HACKERS!!

Damn shame!!
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__________________
Most respect the badge, but all fear the drum.

...OUCH!!!

What happened to your tom ? Was that shrinkage or some other type of road rash ?

Barry
 
How about upgrading the stock heads?
They never give you the top-of-the-line drum heads.

The school where I teach just bought a Pearl Vision kit. I was impressed at how good the stock heads were. Clear pinstripe-esque batter heads, great kick heads with muffling, and everything tunes up very well.

I've also been pretty impressed with DW's stock heads.
 
It hurt me to see the price of the anniversary Steve Gadd and Steve Smith kit. Hmm... a kit that neither actually played, kits that can be ordered normally anyway. Add a name plate and triple or quadruple the price. Ouch.

Yep, exactly. It made a perfect climax for me when they released all those new signature kits. The prices are so high even though those kits don`t really differ in material...more in cosmetics.

Karl
 
Ludwig: PERMANENT wraps, like they did in the 1970's, ever try to remove black cortex from the 1970's?? Yeah, it should be THAT well glued!! When I buy a kit I want it to STAY together and not have to be re-wrapped because the wrap fell off or split. That's BUSH league man!! That stuff is WAY too expensive for the wrap to fall off in a few years.

Check the attachment~ made in 1999, they should last 30 years before a HINT of the wrap having a problem shows up!!!! HACKERS!!

Damn shame!!
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__________________
Most respect the badge, but all fear the drum.

=O 30 years! One of those cost cutting/time saving methods are to ttach the wrap at one point with hi-bond tape. Easy to remove, but not nearly the durability.

Ludwig's process was so bad at one point in the 80's, the wrap had rivits!!!

I see wraps from the 50's and 60's intact all the time. Yellowed a bit maybe...
 
Oh, what a suprise... some of my comments got deleted.

For the record, they were that Pearl are the dodgiest guys in the business who make a living on stealing ideas from the small guys. Golden Ratio concept? Stolen. Putting a patent in for the stave method of construction? Dodgy as.
 
Oh, what a suprise... some of my comments got deleted.

For the record, they were that Pearl are the dodgiest guys in the business who make a living on stealing ideas from the small guys. Golden Ratio concept? Stolen. Putting a patent in for the stave method of construction? Dodgy as.

MY friend (who still has a small drum shop) had the first year (76?) Rogers kit with memriloc. It was *obviously* different from any existing hardware. According to him, they failed to patent it. Pearl had a very similar system not long afterwards.

Maybe I can't use the "S" word, perhaps "Borrow/inspired the concept via lateral examination of pre-existing corporate product" would be more correct. I saw your original post and even though it was removed, I agreed with what you said.
 
That's insane!

Not to mention, I have never seen a stave pearl drum. Didn't know they ever made any.

They don't make any. They rebadge the drums made by a small european company, whose product doesn't appear anywhere near the quality of most small/boutique builders like Unix, Metro, Brady, and JTP (plus a heap of others). They don't seem to be all that well made; not even lathed on the inside.
 
...OUCH!!!

What happened to your tom ? Was that shrinkage or some other type of road rash ?

Barry
That's not a tom, that's a 14x26 inch kick drum the wrap shrunk so bad that it pulled itself apart. The 18inch floor tom's wrap fell off completely after removing the lugs, just fell off the shell like it wasn't ever part of the drum.

Needless to say I was NOT impressed!!

=O 30 years! One of those cost cutting/time saving methods are to ttach the wrap at one point with hi-bond tape. Easy to remove, but not nearly the durability.

Ludwig's process was so bad at one point in the 80's, the wrap had rivits!!!

I see wraps from the 50's and 60's intact all the time. Yellowed a bit maybe...
That wrap WAS fully glued, not taped, the shell was still slightly tacky, but not NEARLY enough to hold the wrap in place.

And as for the RIVETS?? I have a Rivet kit, that wrap is as nice as the day it was bought, practically INDESTRUCTIBLE!! and they sound GREAT!!!
And my 1960's kits, they have stayed together MORE than the 30 years I mentioned and look great and sound great too!!
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__________________
Most respect the badge, but all fear the drum.
 
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That wrap WAS fully glued, not taped, the shell was still slightly tacky, but not NEARLY enough to hold the wrap in place.

And as for the RIVETS?? I have a Rivet kit, that wrap is as nice as the day it was bought, practically INDESTRUCTIBLE!! and they sound GREAT!!!
And my 1960's kits, they have stayed together MORE than the 30 years I mentioned and look great and sound great too!!

I am glad the rivits didn't turn out to be a bad thing. I have read a lot of jabs at Ludwig for doing that.
 
Tama- The 80's called; they want their lugs back.

Ddrum- Marketing an entire drum series to a specific genre of music? How silly. Oh, wait. That's Tama's philosophy, too.

What's 80's about the Starclassic lugs? And Tama doesn't strictly market to hard rock & metal. OCDP does. (or at least every endorser I've ever seen in any ad is rock/metal/punk.)
 
What's 80's about the Starclassic lugs? And Tama doesn't strictly market to hard rock & metal. OCDP does. (or at least every endorser I've ever seen in any ad is rock/metal/punk.)

Ok, so the Starclassics are gorgeous. I'll give you that (and I love my SC snare)... but every set lower than that has and has had the same lugs that scream "hair metal" to me every time I see them.

I don't see a lot of jazzers or pop players endorsing or even PLAYING Tama. IME, if I see Tama drums, it's due to one of two reasons:

1) The drummer is a metalhead or a hard rocker, and eventually wants a huge double bass kit with power toms and gong drums and at least 14 chinas stacked around the set...

2) The drummer doesn't have much money and is playing on a Tama kit FROM the 80's. Usually accompanied by B8 and ZXT cymbals and with a big blanket jammed in the bass drum. :)
 
I am glad the rivits didn't turn out to be a bad thing. I have read a lot of jabs at Ludwig for doing that.
The rivets most certainly LOOK stupid, but they do the job that's the bottom line. Ludwig's 6 ply maple shells were heavy, but they sound great, I'm saying thet from first hand experience.
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Most respect the badge, but all fear the drum.
 
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