Wow, I just safely and completely unyellowed my WMP

So, it literally takes just a second for the chemical reaction to make the work? I've seen a Round Badge in Champagne Sparkle in awesome condition at $2000 for sale here in Sweden. This could maybe make it look brand new?
 
So, it literally takes just a second for the chemical reaction to make the work? I've seen a Round Badge in Champagne Sparkle in awesome condition at $2000 for sale here in Sweden. This could maybe make it look brand new?

No, it needs UV light to work. UV light activates the oxidation process. I won't get into the quantum physics of it all but essentially UV light provides the energy for the electrons to jump atomic shell.
 
In my case it took probably a good 18 hours of sunlight/UV light to restore the wrap back to original. So it takes a little bit of time. The chemists were able to use the very thing that caused the yellowing, UV light, to reverse the process. Friggin results are a miracle. I WISH I had taken before pics, but I was in such a hurry at the time. I am trying to see if I can find the original Ebay ad for some before pics.
 
Super killer find/score. This fix could take the "vintage" drum world by storm.​
 
I know Harry, it's pretty big, as far a the restoration guys are concerned. I think that given the choice, the majority would opt for non yellowed drums, JMO.

There are so many uses, I could start a business unyellowing stuff.
 
Yeah, a buddy of mine just scored a Rogers Script Logo kit, black, that's faded to a dull flat black. 20, 12, 13, 16. $300, he paid. This might be the fix he needs. I e-mailed him this link.​
 
Awesome Harry. I do want to spread the word far and wide. The stuff works like magic. The pics speak for themselves.
 
I'm very happy. Faded, dulled or yellowed wraps can now be a thing of the past. Gotta love the internet and all the good people willing to share awesome knowledge without regard to profit.
 
No, it needs UV light to work. UV light activates the oxidation process. I won't get into the quantum physics of it all but essentially UV light provides the energy for the electrons to jump atomic shell.

This is what I'm talking about.. There is no need for this. The guy posted pictures.. it worked! I guess your chemistry degree doesn't apply here. The guy was nice enough to share something that worked and let people know what he did. He doesn't need nonsense replies like this.
 
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This is what I'm talking about.. There is no need for this. The guy posted pictures.. it worked! I guess your chemistry major doesn't apply here. The guy was nice enough to share something that worked and let people know what he did. He doesn't need nonsense replies like this.

I don't have a chemistry major. I have a degree. We don't have 'majors' in my country.

Kg_lee, please don't hijack other threads just to attack me. Start a new thread if you want to try and call me out.
 
Thanks Larry for sharing a most impressive product! I'm sure some of us on here greatly appreciate your post.
 
Larry I'm glad that you included the part about treating them afterwords with Armor-All. I used to work as a auto detailor, there are many products that are simular to Armor-All and actualy do a much better job of protecting from UV rays. Just look around. The last step is very important and really needs to be done because I'm sure that there is a very good possibility that the treatment could dry out the wrap material. Good luck, and thanks for posting this helpful tip. John
 
Just an important notice from the fella`s at Vintage Drum Forum:

The method discussed here will NOT work on Pyralin/cellulose based wraps/WMP.. because .. the yellowing that takes place on those particular wraps happen from the INSIDE out... not on top. As to how well the stuff mentioned here works on PVC, well... perhaps someone is willing to take up the gauntlet of challenge and check it out. I will say again however... NOT RECOMMENDED on the "older" Pyralin/cellulose film, which in reality, is NOT plastic.

the whole topic is here -> http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=29921
 
Thanks Razvan for the link.

I don't know what to say. I am a little confused. Did the one guy basically say it WON'T work on WMP? I think he did. If he did....my results prove otherwise. Boy do they prove otherwise. Honestly, every time I look at those 76 Luds, I am floored as to how perfect the wrap looks. Just floored. I am kicking myself for not taking before pics, I was in such a rush. I think this is where any disbelief comes from, no before pics. I wasn't sure if it would work on PVC. Also, after treatment, I ran my fingertips all along the wrap...just to check for any compromising of the surface. I found absolutely no roughness, no damage, no pitting, no stryations, no anything....smooth as it ever was, in showroom condition. Like I said, I was totally floored.


For any of the guys/gals from the vintage drum forum reading this...I feel a need to qualify myself to you....You guys probably don't know me, but I am an entrenched member here, and if I do say so myself, I am as credible as they come. Anybody who knows me here knows that if anything, I am honest. I would never never mislead anyone, it's just not in my nature. All I want is to elevate everything drumming. I am making zero money from this, I don't own shares in peroxide lol, I just want to spread some fantastic news that I myself proved to work.

I'm saying flat out right here, right now, that in complete honesty, as one drummer to all the rest....I safely unyellowed my 1976 Ludwig WMP wrap using 15% peroxide and a tiny bit of oxyclean, made into gel form and placed in sunlight for about 18 hours. With stunningly perfect results. No matter what it's made from, and I don't actually know, I thought it was PVC, the 15% peroxide completely unyellowed it. Bam!

My wrap has zero damage as a result of this, and I'm pretty sure that it's gonna stay that way.

When something comes along that is a game changer, you will get opposition.

I read a great line recently....Truth: First it's ridiculed, then it's attacked, then eventually it's accepted as self evident.

People, this is great news. Be happy and take full advantage of it. No need to complicate things.
 
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I don't know what to say. I am a little confused. Did the one guy basically say it WON'T work on WMP? I think he did. If he did....my results prove otherwise. Boy do they prove otherwise. Honestly, every time I look at those 76 Luds

He said it won't work on pyralin, but does work on PVC, with speculation that the pyralin was used until at least 1966, so if all your shells are mid-70s vintage, that might explain the difference. Maybe.
 
Larry,

The way i see it, the dude said it works on "modern" PVC wraps/WMP`s (just like yours) but that it is dangerous to use on Pyralin (whatever that is) , wich has been used for wraps " up until at least 1966 ", as the guy mentioned.
I can see you have wonderful results but when trying new methods , people seem to be a bit scared of them, especially when they have to be applied on rare/ vintage drums. I don`t think he`s trying to turn you off, he`s just raising a warning. Anyway, some other guy on VDF said he`ll try it and i`m really eager to see his results.
Actually, i tought about trying it myself, but not on a drum wrap. I`ll se if i`ll get some 15% peroxide and take some before/after pics.
 
Sorry Jules, my set, my rules. I don't like a 12 and 13, too close together in size. Never understood that interval choice. I'm crazy about the 10" tom tone. And an 18" floor tom is just too much for me and too far a stretch. But I could be happy like they are, 1 up and 1 down. I prefer 3 toms. Max.
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I'm with you Larry, I like at least 2" between toms. I played a 10, 13, 16 set once and thought that they were really good intervals.

As for the cleaning method, I think it depends on your perspective. If the older wraps do yellow from the inside out, then obviously it won't deal with that simply by cleaning the surface, however, it will clean the surface and that might make a major difference. after all, in years gone by, I've played in some pretty smoky dive bars....
 
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Oh Ok...yea I don't want anyone to ruin anyone's pre 1966 wrap. I can't speak intelligently about that. Seems like a good experiment to do on a pre 1966 cheapo drum for test purposes.

It does strike me odd that something could yellow from the inside out. That doesn't seem logical to me as the inside isn't exposed like the outer layer is. But I have no real firsthand knowledge so I will defer to the warnings.

I do think someone should experiment with the older wraps, in the interest of seeing if any damage occurs. Because if it is safe...people should know that. On the other hand if it is detrimental, people should know that too. I'd experiment but I don't have any pre 1966 drum wraps to experiment on.

The only question mark I have in my mind is...How does the person who is warning us know that peroxide will damage pre 1966 wraps? This is a fairly new discovery, the peroxide thing. Is he stating theory or does he have firsthand knowledge of an experiment where pre 1966 wrap was damaged by peroxide? I want facts not theory.

Sorry, I have to question everything that doesn't add up in my head. I just don't see how peroxide can damage anything, it's so close to being water. But if it does, I will believe it. I would have to see the results though.
 
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