Any drum builders or customisers?

Michaelocalypse

Senior Member
I picked up a 1.5hp Craftsman router and aluminium table today, for $30, so I can finally cut bearing edges properly! (Once I get bits.)

I also have a table saw my neighbour gave me a while back. I picked it up hoping to eventually make stave shells. For now I just need a good blade for cutting down some drum shells to a depth that I like. Any suggestions on what type of blade(s) I should get?
 
I picked up a 1.5hp Craftsman router and aluminium table today, for $30, so I can finally cut bearing edges properly! (Once I get bits.)

I also have a table saw my neighbour gave me a while back. I picked it up hoping to eventually make stave shells. For now I just need a good blade for cutting down some drum shells to a depth that I like. Any suggestions on what type of blade(s) I should get?

A fine tooth blade will do, It will leave less rough edges and has less chance of tearing the plies. Take it easy with a fine tooth and you will leave yourself less work to do regarding the clean up of the shell when cut.
 
A fine tooth blade will do, It will leave less rough edges and has less chance of tearing the plies. Take it easy with a fine tooth and you will leave yourself less work to do regarding the clean up of the shell when cut.
That's pretty much it. Measure many times, then measure again before committing that blade :)
 
Awesome, thanks for the help!

The table saw has a fence and all the other bits with it still, so I figured I'd use that to my advantage to keep the cut straight while spinning the shell around. Of course I'll have to measure to the proper side of the blade...
 
So this cutting of shells has been rolling around in my head for a bit. How would you do that? I’m assuming you want a good factory like cut? I’ve done some fun woodworking stuff in the past, but cylindrical shells bring in an interesting twist. So I asked some of my fabrication buddies on how they would do it with a table saw.

They all agree to get a new sharp good quality fine tooth blade. Set the blade depth just slightly more than the thickness of the shell. By doing this you also have a small cutting area. You’re gonna need to keep the shell tightly centered over the cutting blade area.

Also place tape on the inside and outside of the cutline. This will help reduce splintering. Also suggest putting tape completely around the outside at various intervals to help prevent scratching the shell on the table.

They agreed, it would be better with two pairs of hands. Rotating and keep it firm against the fence can be tricky. You rotate the shell while the other pair of hands keep it firm against the fence and help maintain stability while you move your hands to rotate.

One of my buddies came up with an idea of clamping down a piece of wood against the fence and perpendicular to the blade at a certain distance. This would be support and kind of a jig/stop to keep the shell always centered on the cutting blade.
 
I picked up a 1.5hp Craftsman router and aluminium table today, for $30, so I can finally cut bearing edges properly! (Once I get bits.)

I also have a table saw my neighbour gave me a while back. I picked it up hoping to eventually make stave shells. For now I just need a good blade for cutting down some drum shells to a depth that I like. Any suggestions on what type of blade(s) I should get?


Oddly enough I don't see a Drum builder category on the main page. Did there used to be one?
 
So this cutting of shells has been rolling around in my head for a bit. How would you do that? I’m assuming you want a good factory like cut? I’ve done some fun woodworking stuff in the past, but cylindrical shells bring in an interesting twist. So I asked some of my fabrication buddies on how they would do it with a table saw.

They all agree to get a new sharp good quality fine tooth blade. Set the blade depth just slightly more than the thickness of the shell. By doing this you also have a small cutting area. You’re gonna need to keep the shell tightly centered over the cutting blade area.

Also place tape on the inside and outside of the cutline. This will help reduce splintering. Also suggest putting tape completely around the outside at various intervals to help prevent scratching the shell on the table.

They agreed, it would be better with two pairs of hands. Rotating and keep it firm against the fence can be tricky. You rotate the shell while the other pair of hands keep it firm against the fence and help maintain stability while you move your hands to rotate.

One of my buddies came up with an idea of clamping down a piece of wood against the fence and perpendicular to the blade at a certain distance. This would be support and kind of a jig/stop to keep the shell always centered on the cutting blade.

get an ATB 80-tooth (crosscut) blade, and you won't need tape

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHRvQweyeCE
 
That video is great. I was thinking that as the best solution. Finding the rollers might be some work, but worth it I would think.

We came up with the 2 person and block of wood for those that might not have this jig. But ya, that looks like the way to go.
 
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