Is it realistically possible for me to shorten the depths of my toms ?

Drummer911

Junior Member
I play a pearl export exr, with 2 rack toms (12x9, 13x10) and I find the toms are WAY to deep to be in comfortable playing position, so I play a 4 piece with my rack on a snare stand.

So my question is would it be possible to make them shallower ?

I think this is what I would need to do:

-Unwrap drums.
-Cut down to preferred size(any idea how to do this?)
-Re-do bearing edge
-re-drill holes for lugs
-maybe re-wrap ?


Anyways, so before I start sawing my drums apart (lol) I decided i'd get some input on wether or not this is even a good idea, or possible etc.
 
I'd recommend not doing it. Why don't you get a double tom stand and mount the 2 racks on it, and position it to the left of your bass drum? (assuming you're right handed) That way you could lower them to a more comfortable playing position. The simple answers tend to be the best.
 
I would definetly reccomend getting a double tom stand and placing the toms to the left of the bass drum instead of directly over the bass drum.
 
Also this is ALLOT of work to be investing into an export.
 
So my question is would it be possible to make them shallower ?

I think this is what I would need to do:

-Unwrap drums.
-Cut down to preferred size(any idea how to do this?)
-Re-do bearing edge
-re-drill holes for lugs
-maybe re-wrap ?
Indeed, you pretty much have all the steps. You can find info. in this thread here: http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44307 about how to go about. I'd say go for it. If you're gonna DIY, better to start off with an Export shell, than a Yamaha RC or a DW shell. Cutting the shell (need a table saw) and cutting a bearing edge (a table mounted router helps), neither of these operations are rocket science. Strictly a matter of being comfortable with wood-working.
 
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I play a pearl export exr, with 2 rack toms (12x9, 13x10) and I find the toms are WAY to deep to be in comfortable playing position, so I play a 4 piece with my rack on a snare stand.

So my question is would it be possible to make them shallower ?

I think this is what I would need to do:

-Unwrap drums.
-Cut down to preferred size(any idea how to do this?)
-Re-do bearing edge
-re-drill holes for lugs
-maybe re-wrap ?


Anyways, so before I start sawing my drums apart (lol) I decided i'd get some input on wether or not this is even a good idea, or possible etc.


Okay, anybody who is encouraging this guy to cut his toms is insane. It IS rocket science and i will say with 95% certainty, if you haven't done it before you'll probably screw up your first time doing it. This isn't a birdhouse or a bicycle ramp, that bearing edge has to be 100% precise and level or you won't get a good seal on your drumhead and you will end up ruining your drum. You need pro tools for this pro job, much more $ than the drumset itself.

Here's your options:

1. get a double tom stand or rack and take your drums off of the bass drum mount
2. trade in for a smaller drumset
3 get a pro shop to do the work for you

Resurrection Drums in miami cut down my floor tom and applied a precision bearing edge:
100_0019.jpg


There are additional factors that go into this: you need to map out every single hole in your shell and calculate with a measuring stick if it's even mathematically possible to do the job taking into account lug spacing. I wanted the pro shop to cut from the bottom of the floor tom shell to eliminate the holes from the tom leg brackets but there wasn't enough room on top because of hole placement.
 
Ok look, this is not rocket Science!

If this is something you want to learn then try it.

It really boils down to this, Access to a good table saw and building the jig like I posted.
Getting a good square cut is not hard if you set up correctly. Use a standard shell depth. There are plenty of tried and true shell depths to choose from. Just do you homework.
The hole pattern is already laid out for you. Use a T Square line up off of the existing holes.
Use a router table for the bearing edge, take your time and use the remaining stock edge as a guide.

Do you stand the chance of ruining your shell? sure you do, Is this brain surgery, no it is not.

Only you can decide your skill level with woodworking and your desire to learn this.
 
Okay, anybody who is encouraging this guy to cut his toms is insane. It IS rocket science and i will say with 95% certainty, if you haven't done it before you'll probably screw up your first time doing it. This isn't a birdhouse or a bicycle ramp, that bearing edge has to be 100% precise and level or you won't get a good seal on your drumhead and you will end up ruining your drum. You need pro tools for this pro job, much more $ than the drumset itself.

Here's your options:

1. get a double tom stand or rack and take your drums off of the bass drum mount
2. trade in for a smaller drumset
3 get a pro shop to do the work for you

Resurrection Drums in miami cut down my floor tom and applied a precision bearing edge:
100_0019.jpg


There are additional factors that go into this: you need to map out every single hole in your shell and calculate with a measuring stick if it's even mathematically possible to do the job taking into account lug spacing. I wanted the pro shop to cut from the bottom of the floor tom shell to eliminate the holes from the tom leg brackets but there wasn't enough room on top because of hole placement.

and who are you? lol

yeah, its not as easy as it sounds...cut, redo edges, drill holes, done...
but, geez..if your calling it rockets science and then calling us insane? im sorry, but we've been here a little longer, and been around that block a few times..

Alex
 
This is one of those things. You get this urge to do it, you really fancy having a go. It goes wrong - or it goes as planned but they sound shyte after wards. And you think... I wish I'd left them as they were.

I'd buy a new kit. Once I had that new kit, and only then, would I feel quite comfortable going at my Exports with a saw!
 
and who are you? lol

yeah, its not as easy as it sounds...cut, redo edges, drill holes, done...
but, geez..if your calling it rockets science and then calling us insane? im sorry, but we've been here a little longer, and been around that block a few times..

Alex


Who am I? Answer below. The question for you oh-so-wise is who is he (drummer 911, the author of the post). I see a guy who has 1 post on the forum and a guy asking if it's possible to resize his tom. (for real? just asking if it's possible?) Now, who here thinks that this guy is handy with tools for one, owns the tools necessary to do the job, two, and has the knowhow to do it properly, three. Obviously if the answer to any of these questions was yes, then he wouldn't be asking about it in the forum in the first place. Now if he came in and said, "hi my name's bob, i'm a hobbyist woodworker with a tablesaw and a jig, what's the best way to square up the shell and make my first cut?" Then obviously i'd say, the guy has some confidence and woodworking skills, it's just a pearl export go for it, but again, for christsakes people, you're throwing him to the wolves and he's going to probably ruin the shell. There was a point in MY life where my only drumkit was a USED pearl export and i worked my ass off for an entire summer, cooking chicken wings in a mom and pop sweatshop to buy it. Just like all the other drummers that just put his kit down on the forum, several guys made fun of MY kit, but hey, i was proud of it and it was the world to me. If i had cut into it, not knowing what i was doing and ended up ruining it on the advice of some guys saying "oh go ahead it's not rocket science, it's just a pearl P.O.S" I would be totally distraught. But who am I? Drummer 911, if you feel comfortable doing it, go for it, there's a couple guys on this post that you can call on their personal cell phones to talk you through it every step of the way. I'd help you if i could, hell you can even PM me and get MY personal cell phone number even though all i can give you is encouragement.

<--- I'm that guy.
 
Okay, anybody who is encouraging this guy to cut his toms is insane. It IS rocket science and i will say with 95% certainty, if you haven't done it before you'll probably screw up your first time doing it.
Gee....I'm glad to know Lenny and myself are "rocket scientists" then. It's not that hard. To cut an inch or two off the bottom of 2 rack toms. The whole process can be done in an afternoon. The OP has got "power toms" and a Pearl Export kit. He makes a table saw cut, reso. end of his rack tom right where the first set of lug holes is. That will take probably 1.5 to 2 inches off the drum. Using the holes that remain, he moves inward the drum, a measured distance. There are still 2 holes batter and 1 hole reso., to keep everything in line vertical. Given the job, he's probably going to drill 6 holes.


There are additional factors that go into this: you need to map out every single hole in your shell and calculate with a measuring stick if it's even mathematically possible to do the job taking into account lug spacing. I wanted the pro shop to cut from the bottom of the floor tom shell to eliminate the holes from the tom leg brackets but there wasn't enough room on top because of hole placement.
Your project and his project are simply two completely different things.
 
I would leave the toms just as they are. I would guess those bearing edges are very difficult to cut in a precise manner. As someone mentioned earlier, you need a perfect seal between the edge and the head or you'll lose a lot of resonance. Even lining up the new holes for the lugs could be a challenge without a proper jig.

I also have this Pearl Export kit and know the problem with the deep shells. I'd recommend raising your throne to get to the minimum height that these toms provide.
 
Having chopped my own Export toms from 10x10 and 10x12 to 8x10 and 9x12, I can tell you a bit about this.

First off, I used a table saw to do the initial cuts. This kept the edge true to the original.

Because I don't have a proper router I hand cut the new bearing edges with a series of files and sanding. I lost a little sound quality as a result, so I would suggest investing in the proper tools if this is worth that much to you.

I had to carve a "backing block" for the inside of the shells to avoid splintering the inner ply when drilling the new lug holes. It worked. No splinters. Just radius a 2x2 slightly and clamp it to the inside where you are drilling.

If you are unsure about doing something like this, see about finding some cheapo used drums at a pawn shop or whatever, and try resizing those first. This stuff takes practice if you are new to woodworking and it's better to screw up a kit you don't care as much about as your main rig.
 
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