Top ten priorities when shopping for drums

MadJazz

Silver Member
One of the fun parts of being a drummer is collecting a drum set, piece by piece. This gives drummers a lot of options and the joy of owning a personalized drum set. However, the vast amount of options can become overhelming and without the proper approach, the quest for the ultimate drum set will result in a never-ending spending spree and frustration.

Too often, people focus on shell specs while in my experience, there are many other elements more important to being a drummer. In fact, the shells are one of the last priorities on my shopping list. Here are the priorities I wrote down for myself that remind me of what constitutes a good drum set.


1. hearing protection and isolated headphones
Absolute priority. No fun living with tinnitus. Playing along with music tracks teaches so much: keeping time, listening, playing musical, building a repertoire, having fun.... The cheapest (and very decent) iso-phones I found are by Vic Firth and cost 80 €. Professional phones go for 200 € and more but you won't need them until you mic the drums. Watch out with the phones' volume. If you need to turn up the volume to hear the music, you need both ear plugs and iso-phones! Even better are custom-made earplugs. You can inquire at the doctor. They reduce the volume more evenly across all frequencies so you don't get that muddy sound that cheap ear plugs produce. They cost 100-200 € to make but they're personalized and you can get different filters. I suggest -25dB for regular play. They're litterally a life saver.

Drums are damn loud, even when played softly, and if care isn't taken from day one, you'll damage your hearing sooner or later (in my case, after just one year with little exposure). Remember the volume of a snare rim shot hit at 50 cm (the place you sit) is close to 110dB! Hi hats played open, heavy crashes and chinas come a close second.

2. sticks, rods, mallets, brushes and a stick bag
Finding the right sticks is crucial. Once found, my hands adapted and I never changed or it would have brought me off balance. I have a pair of VF 5A for practice and a lighter pair of VF H5A for performance. Rods break easily but they're great for low volume settings. To cope with the cost, I'd either make them myself from garden sticks that you can buy cheaply, or buy a plastic pair like VF Rute 505. Then there are brushes and mallets which all cost but it's worth investing.

Sticks are a personal choice but 5A is a medium size and a good starting point. They break and are expensive but the right sticks make you play and sound better. Also, get a teacher asap to show you the correct body and hand position so you don't injure yourself in the long run. If you have to take one lesson only, learn this.

3. throne and practice pad
Don't let a mediocre throne injure your back or keep you off balance. A good throne costs quite a bit but I'd rather please my ass than buy an extra cymbal or tom. Nothing as embarrassing as falling off a breaking drum chair (it happened to me).

4. different heads, drum keys / drum dial and muffling devices
There's nothing else that changes the sound of drums more than heads and tuning. There's a lot of choice here and heads aren't cheap. Tuning drums can be quite complex and can only be learnt by trial & error. If you can't tune, your drums will sound bad no matter what you buy. Try different combinations before giving up on your current drum set.

If you don't know what heads to get, start with Remo Powerstroke3 on the batter side. Preferably a clear version for toms and kick, coated for snare. These heads tune up very easily because they have the benefits of a single ply (good rebound and sensitivity) and have a built-in muffle ring. This ring is much thinner than a more intrusive 0-ring. What it does is eliminate the annoying overring produced by the hoops without killing sustain. You get a full but controlled tone.

5. pedals
Just as sticks affect your limbs, so do pedals. Smooth and sturdy pedals make you play better and improve your progress. Good pedals are also expensive.

6. snare with stand and case
You'll hit it more than anything else, it's the most sensitive element of a drum set and changing the snare drum is the easiest way to personalize a drum set after sticks and heads. Also try a different set of wires. You can usually live with mediocre kick and toms that are tuned well but you can really hear the quality difference on the snare drum. More expensive still doesn't mean anything if you can't tune well or don't know how the many variables affect the sound.

If you don't know what to get, brass is very versatile and musical. It has the clarity of metal but the warmth of wood. No coincidence brass is also used for horns. Even though 14" is the default diameter, I'd get a 13". It's more focused and easier to get a good tone out while still having plenty of body. A medium depth of 5-6" is perfect. I'd always build up from small and gentle drums to something more powerful than vice versa. Maybe you won't need a different snare after all.

Once you find the correct SD for you, it deserves a sturdy stand and case. Nothing as annoying as a snare stand breaking in the middle of a performance (it happened to me). Well, save for the collapsing throne :p

7. hi hat and ride, possibly a crash, with cymbal bag
There's no way to alter cymbals' sound like you can tune drums. But you'll be hitting the hats and ride almost as often as snare and kick, if not more. Reason enough to look for that pair of hats and ride that suits you. You can even mix different hats or keep a secondary ride.

8. kick and two toms with carpet
While a kick is paramount in popular music, you can usually get a good kick sound with the right size, heads and correct amount of muffling. Toms are also affected more by heads and size than by wood type. Buying a kick and toms separately costs a lot more than buying a shell pack, so it's better to leave the kick and toms for this stage. And you really don't need more than two toms, not right now.

A small carpet with rubber underneath is a must to prevent your kick and hi hat stand from slipping away and to protect the floor from the pedals' spikes and grease. I've seen people use beer crates (being guilty myself) or pull ropes to keep gear in place. In my experience, beer crates soon become empty and lose their resistance and unless you like fishing for your hi hat, I suggest you get a piece of carpet. Preferably the less hairy type :)

9. stands and bags / cases
After you upgrade, protect your gear and keep it in place. Reliable stands are expensive for being just a piece of metal. You'd guess it can't get worse after breaking a throne and snare stand, but I've had a crash and ride collapsing (oh the humility!). In the long run, you'll save by buying a few multi-use stands from a renowned brand than by starting with cheap stands that will eventually need to be replaced. And no-one will buy that crap from you second hand. Make sure they're heavy enough (not necessarily the most heavy). You can mount most brands on those double or triple stands and interchange freely. Some prefer a rack but that's only interesting when having a huge set. Throw all the hardware in one sports bag. If it's too heavy, split the gear between two bags.


10. extra gear
You can expand as much as you want: 2nd crash, 2nd snare and cowbell is all I need. But I experience that the larger the drum set, the more cramped the gear is set-up, the more distracted I become and the worse I play. There's apparently a point of reduced reward. Instead, at this point I'd rather buy micing and recording equipment or a second drum set: one for the stage and one for the studio. If you buy a shell set of 10-12-14-16 toms and 22 kick, order an extra 20" kick (or 22 if you like double bass). Now you can have either one big drum set or split it in two: 10-14-20 setup for the studio and 12-16-22 for the stage. If you did buy lousy hardware that I talked about in #9, it can now come in handy to hold one of your sets while buying sturdier stands to hold your favorite setup.


Above all, you need an isolated room with good acoustics where you can store your drums. If you don't dispose of such a place, you might as well stop at #7 and invest in an electronic set. I've learnt more practising on my e-drums than on my a-drums but crave to play a good set of acoustic drums. There's something particular and rewarding about collecting your own set of drums. I just remind myself of what matters more when being on this quest.
 
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Helpful and infomative post !
I wish this was made available to every would-be drummer or a parent looking to get their kid's first kit.
 
Over the years, I also noticed that gear gets used. Drums take a serious beating and get hauled to smokey bars, rainy stages and smelly rehearsals. It only takes a few weeks in a humid cellar, a freezing night outside or a drunk idiot to ruin your drums. Sometimes things break. Or worse, get lost or stolen.

No matter the quality of the gear, it will get used. So I see no point in getting too attached to your equipment. Good drums are a joy to play but drums are tools and at some point you'll have to replace your gear. "Good" doesn't necessarily mean buying the most expensive shell pack. Like noted above, the shells come almost last.
 
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Excellent post!!

the only other thing I would add is - Quality Instruction.

People can be so obsessed with buying more gear when the single best thing you can do to improve the quality of your sound is to improve yourself, and getting a good teacher is the best way to make that happen. Of course - good teaching won't make any diff if you don't practice, but...
 
Excellent post!!

the only other thing I would add is - Quality Instruction.

Obviously. I mentioned it briefly in #2.

I don't think you have to take lessons forever. It's important to learn the fundamental principals well. Once you've learnt some theory and know how rhythm works, you can come up with your own lessons. I have so many ideas to practise on that I don't need a teacher anymore. But I did have classes previously and they drastically improved my understanding of drums.

Also, lessons must be fun. If they aren't, you'll grow frustrated and give up. Imo, planning my own practice schedule and being my own teacher is both challenging and fun.
 
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Thanks for so generously sharing your knowledge, MadJazz.

My two cent's worth is that, when you buy gear, remember that you'll have to pull it down, pack it into bags, carry to the car, drive to the studio or barroom, carry in, unpack it, set up, play, set down, put it back into bags, carry to the car, drive home, carry back into your home (worst case probably at about 3am, in which case you'll probably decide to risk it and leave the kit in the car overnight). If you practice at home, then you have to take it out of the bags, set it up ..............................

Size does matter. Unless you have roadies, of course, in which case a 9-piece kit with 8 cymbals would be marvellous.

While passing on the benefits of our experience, last night one of my sticks slipped down a crevice at the back of the stage. The crevice was hidden by carpet. A slightly clumsy moment before the gig and - whoops! Gone! Fortunately I had a spare pair with me.

When packing up at the end of the night I couldn't find the O-ring I use at rehearsal. Yep, you guessed it. Down the the crevice into Davy Jones' Locker. The bloody stage was eating my equipment!

Moral of the story: Spares are good. It's easy to lose stuff at gigs - sometimes in the oddest ways :D
 
Excellent post!!

the only other thing I would add is - Quality Instruction.

People can be so obsessed with buying more gear when the single best thing you can do to improve the quality of your sound is to improve yourself, and getting a good teacher is the best way to make that happen. Of course - good teaching won't make any diff if you don't practice, but...

I'm with ya on that!!!

- even at advanced levels



I found it an interesting journey on my native instrument

first you take instruction and struggle with basic mechanics and understanding musicality

then you might go to instruction to learn more advanced technique, elements of challenging complexity and all that stuff

Then at the advanced levels - oh they expect you to execute the music, and it's back to refining the basic mechanics and understanding the musicality (maybe on a finer level, but it's still the basics)
some of it is unlearning habits and slop we've mistaught ourselves during our practice ("practice makes permanent... " :) ) or exposing those areas we maybe aren't that sensitive to or tend to hide from

In a way, it becomes coaching (that term can sometimes make it easier for some folks too)

It's something I find across endeavors, not just music
 
Amazing tips! Very insightful and I can imagine how much it would help an aspiring drummer. I will remember this thread and refer friends to it.
 
don't forget appearance

your new drum kit should match your old drum kit, in a t least color, as closely as possible so your SO doesn't find out what you just bought

and rememeber people - solidarity -- $300, a new 12 piece pernambuco kit with NASA hardware and cheetah ear-skin heads -- if anyone asks $300. No matter what you paid at the store, when you get home, it cost $300
 
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Amazing tips! Very insightful and I can imagine how much it would help an aspiring drummer. I will remember this thread and refer friends to it.

I'm glad to please.


don't forget appearance

your new drum kit should match your old drum kit, in a t least color, as closely as possible so your SO doesn't find out what you just bought

How can you not like this.


the only other thing I would add is - Quality Instruction.

Unless you consider living off the drums, drumming must first and foremost be fun. If you do wanna make a living out of drums, you might consider a real job or studies first.

I think many on these forums take drumming too seriously, get obsessed and eventually grow frustrated. They also lose perspective and forget priorities. That's the reason I wrote this entire piece.

I agree that that lessons must be challenging and pleasant but if drumming isn't fun, then why continue playing? Of course, if you play professionally, that's a different story.


PS: I expanded a few points, especially #1, #4, #10.
 
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I agree that that lessons must be challenging and pleasant but if drumming isn't fun, then why continue playing? Of course, if you play professionally, that's a different story.

Words of wisdom indeed.

I used this piece of advice and applied it to playing video games (World of Warcraft) it started to feel like work, so I quit playing.
 
How can you not like this.

Oh it's not a question of "like" it's a question of "notice" :D

Though that does bring up an alternative strategy - visual noise -- if you can't convince them, confuse them - was that bile-green floor tom there last time or not?!?! - who can tell

I'm convinced paypal is ,essentially, a money laundering facility for people in committed relationships


sadly, I have to walk an additional edge

If it's something the wife DOES like she uses a magic word "MINE!"

my fav cymbal -- on her kit
my better kick pedal - guess where that is :(




I think many on these forums take drumming too seriously, get obsessed and eventually grow frustrated. They also lose perspective and forget priorities. That's the reason I wrote this entire piece.

I agree that that lessons must be challenging and pleasant but if drumming isn't fun, then why continue playing?


Often, I find that high effort parts can be "rewarding" - That's one reason I play, I also find that in certain forms of sport and such
many things (including musical instruments) can have a barrier to entry where some foundation work can really HELP mitigate the frustration from dealing with that barrier
AND can help with later frustration (and sometimes even injury) that can arise from hitting performance limits that can come from initial "cowboying" techniques or incomplete/mis- understanding principles.
Or even boredom from not being able to see beyond their knowledge horizon.


I believe instruction HELPS the student have fun by giving them a little facility to explore (not just drums, not just music) - it makes for a richer environment.
I'm wayyy pro-instruction, esp at the beginning of an activity
 
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Though that does bring up an alternative strategy - visual noise -- if you can't convince them, confuse them - was that bile-green floor tom there last time or not?!?! - who can tell

I like how your mind works :)
 
don't forget appearance

your new drum kit should match your old drum kit, in a t least color, as closely as possible so your SO doesn't find out what you just bought

and rememeber people - solidarity -- $300, a new 12 piece pernambuco kit with NASA hardware and cheetah ear-skin heads -- if anyone asks $300. No matter what you paid at the store, when you get home, it cost $300

I'm down with this brother!! LMAO...I'm currently in the middle of doing this. Sold the old kit a couple of weeks ago. The cases are still there...as empty as my wallet...but they look like they've got drums in them. The new kit in similar colour will slip straight in, when it arrives. And no-one's the wiser!!!

Was also with a mate when he bt a $1400 Martin guitar for $895 the other day. "How much was that?" His wife asked. "$300" He answers, without any hesitation.....Great stuff!!

Great OP too buy the way.
 
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