Abused Mapex Orion Kit

Tonzo91

Member
I wanted to hear some of your opinions. I have been searching for a new kit and happened to come across a 4 piece mapex orion shell pack in the sizes I would like for $700. Great deal right? But of course there is a down side. Every metal hoop has a good amount of rust on it. The bass drum hoops have quite a few scuffs and dings and each drum definitely has a few battle scars. Is this kit still worth it if the bearing edges are all still good?

I'd basically have to replace most of the hoops, though I'm not sure what I'd do for the bass drum, polish all of the remaining hardware, sand down any major scuffs and re-coat the shells. (Assuming they didn't go beyond the clear coat)

Who let's their kit take on this kind of abuse?!?!
 
Rust on such a young kit would have me seriously question the environment it's been stored in, & that can lead to downsides you can't immediately see. Also, before buying it, do you have the means to properly ascertain that the edges are good (I'm not just talking about finding a sheet of glass or counter top, as they're not guaranteed flat)? If these drums have a lacquer/poly coat finish, you're looking at a lot of work to refinish them too.

I'd be walking away from this.
 
I would take off the heads and look inside. Are the plies separating, is the wood splitting etc.? Do you notice any large bumps/bubbles inside or outside the shells?

This is a good brand and good model. It may be worth refinishing to your liking as long as the shells are OK structurally.
 
Rust on such a young kit would have me seriously question the environment it's been stored in, & that can lead to downsides you can't immediately see. Also, before buying it, do you have the means to properly ascertain that the edges are good (I'm not just talking about finding a sheet of glass or counter top, as they're not guaranteed flat)? If these drums have a lacquer/poly coat finish, you're looking at a lot of work to refinish them too.

I'd be walking away from this.

You've got me curious.. What is guaranteed flat?

I saw one of your pictures with a laser highlighting a bearing edge.
 
I've done the drum refinishing thing. Its a lot of work and in the end, you may not be happy with the results. With all of the expense for hoops and effort required for the shells, I would say 'buy something else.' There are too many kits on the market and too many good deals out there. If you like Mapex, there are usually good deals on Saturns on the web. They won't need new hardware and won't need refinishing.
 
You've got me curious.. What is guaranteed flat?

I saw one of your pictures with a laser highlighting a bearing edge.
Sorry, slight off topic, but still relevant. The only surface guaranteed flat is something that's calibrated as such. Of course, it's unreasonable to expect everyone to have access to surface plates, but assumptions are readily made about what's flat & what isn't. Most stone counter tops are fairly close, but not guaranteed (I've seen variations as big as 1/16" over 24"), but the surface with the biggest variations (that people assume is flat) tends to be glass.

Yes, we use laser on edges, but mainly as an orientation/square/parallel check. It's not accurate enough for our edges. For those, we use a calibrated cast iron surface plate.
 
Yeah, the Orion is Mapex's top of the line kit, but what's really special about it? Its a solid maple kit with nice lacquer and maybe a burl or birds eye outer ply. There are tons of manufacturers who make this exact same type of kit. Even with how cheap this kit is, you will easily spend another ~$700 with buying new rims, heads, hardware, etc. Not to mention what you will have to do to clean up the shells. That's a lot of work that probably won't pay off.

I would recommend finding a different kit that may cost a little more up front, but doesn't give you all the headaches that this kit will probably give you.
 
I'm with Andy on this. That much rust strongly suggests the kit has been kept in poor environmental conditions. Can't be good for the shells either. Run away from this one.
 
I've had one, and noticed many, not that old Mapex kits that have had rust problems.

Makes me wonder if they've got the chroming process down right.
Could be just careless owners, but I seem to see more Mapex kits than other brands with that problem.
 
I guess I should clarify, when I say a good amount of rust I just mean more than there should be. It just makes me sad to see what was once a beautiful kit turn into this. I may go back to the store and look it over really well. Maybe the scuffs and dings can be buffed out who knows. I didn't check to see if the marks were pitted.
 
You can remove the surface rust off chrome with water and aluminum foil. It works really well and really quick.

I would check the shells like everyone else suggested, but not just the wood. Check the conditions of the screws inside the shell. If they are extremely rusty that could lead to problems with the lugs. Sounds like more work that I would want to put into it.
 
You can remove the surface rust off chrome with water and aluminum foil. It works really well and really quick.

Really? Yikes, I would think that would scratch the chrome badly... but if you speak from experience....

I've had very good results with Nevr-Dull. My car buddy (restores antiques) let me in on that secret. It is available at Walmart, Home Depot, Pep Boys, etc. etc.

As others have said, rust on a new kit is a sign of a short, rough life. Check for water stains inside - hopefully it is not a "flood special".

Good luck,
radman
 
Regarding the rust on the metal parts, by any chance were the drums stored in Gator GPR cases? There was a period when Gator switched glues and the fumes from one particular glue caused extensive rust and corrosion on metal parts. If these drums have been stored in this line of cases there's a good chance the shells could be fine. If they weren't stored in GPR cases I would consider their condition a red flag and move on to other options.
 
Really? Yikes, I would think that would scratch the chrome badly... but if you speak from experience....

The foil is softer than the chrome, so it will not harm the chrome. The water creates a chemical reaction between the foil and chrome, and becomes a paste type rubbing compound. Once it becomes somewhat dirty, just rub it off with a towel. It is that simple. Works fast and beautifully, might take 10 minutes a hoop.
 
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