Show your wood

Tried to register to take a peek, but message "registration disabled by the administrator" comes up. Ideas?

How long ago. They were having server problems, but it is straightened out now. Sometimes if you are using a free email (hotmail, yahoo, etc) it will go to the admin's spam box. I'm on couple of forums that don't allow freemail addys.

I would say try back...
 
How long ago. They were having server problems, but it is straightened out now. Sometimes if you are using a free email (hotmail, yahoo, etc) it will go to the admin's spam box. I'm on couple of forums that don't allow freemail addys.

I would say try back...
Thanks Latz, I tried yesterday, but I'll give it another go. Sounds like a forum I should check out. BTW, my ISP isn't an issue. Cheers, Andy.
 
Tamburo Original Mutenye Walnut, 1991, stave drums.

Some day I will take more pictures and describe the whole set.

That is really beautiful. Even unpolished and well-used. Spectacular drums.

Did the Yamaha mounts come with your Tamburo kit? I have a Proel-era ply Tamburo (not the same, I appreciate!) and it has generic Yamaha-style hardware. I could do with making the upgrade.
 
That is really beautiful. Even unpolished and well-used. Spectacular drums.

Did the Yamaha mounts come with your Tamburo kit? I have a Proel-era ply Tamburo (not the same, I appreciate!) and it has generic Yamaha-style hardware. I could do with making the upgrade.

Well, the kit has been extensively played by the previous owner, and it shows its age! Nevertheless, the shells are still in perfect shape and the set has a beautiful, very focused sound. Actually, I already took contact with Tullio Granatello (Tamburo's founder, currently offering incredible drums under his new brand, Volume Drums) in order to make some maintenance work on the kit. Those who would like to know something more about Tamburo's story and Original sets shold visite his new site http://www.volumedrums.com.

Concerning the hardware: no, I bought it separately. The Yamaha style hardware offered by Tamburo (Proel era) was not bad, but original Yamaha is certainly better.
 
Whoa. Is that the natural color of the wood?? You're not cheating on this thread?

No color added on this one - just oils and clear coat. Here it is before the finish went on (not the greatest lighting - sorry):

[EDIT: The oils and clear coat do add some ambering, but that's true of just about all oil-based finishes.]
 

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One of my favorites. This was mine for a few days before I had to turn it over to my customer. Steambent waterfall bubinga.

I just dry humped the screen

Is this your company? How expensive is one of these shells alone?

OK, I went to the carolina site, beautiful stuff, would be nice if they posted prices, but I am guessing it is like a fine restaurant, if you have to ask, you cant afford it lol
 
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This is my Gretsch jazz kit with my Pacific SX snare.
 

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Heres a old picture of the cherry wood snare I'm making.
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Only thing I plan on doing to it is using tung oil to protect the shell.
 
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One of my favorites. This was mine for a few days before I had to turn it over to my customer. Steambent waterfall bubinga.

Whoa. Is that the natural color of the wood?? You're not cheating on this thread?

I think natural wood calls for more exact building technique. You can't hide any boo-boos with stain.

Jeff makes great drums and too great of a guy to try and pull a fast one....
 
Jeff makes great drums and too great of a guy to try and pull a fast one....
LOL - thanks, Dave.

Just for the record, I took this photo this today in the shop. This is another bubinga shell (this one is stave construction) as the oil blend sealer is first being applied. You can see from the applicator cloth there's no dye or stain involved. But when admiring beautiful wood products, be aware that even clear finishes can dramatically affect the appearance of the wood. How those basic finishing processes are formulated and applied is huge. Yeah, I use stain tricks sometimes, but I'll tell you when. The bubinga shell in this photo is getting exactly the same process as that waterfall bubinga did. (Shot this with flash, so there's also no question about the color of the lighting.)
 

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My snare now has hardware. I honestly thought black would be ugly on the snare. But it looks really nice. I changed my mind on using tung oil, I'll find something to protect the shell. But otherwise leave it alone.
 
LOL - thanks, Dave.

Just for the record, I took this photo this today in the shop. This is another bubinga shell (this one is stave construction) as the oil blend sealer is first being applied. You can see from the applicator cloth there's no dye or stain involved. But when admiring beautiful wood products, be aware that even clear finishes can dramatically affect the appearance of the wood. How those basic finishing processes are formulated and applied is huge. Yeah, I use stain tricks sometimes, but I'll tell you when. The bubinga shell in this photo is getting exactly the same process as that waterfall bubinga did. (Shot this with flash, so there's also no question about the color of the lighting.)

This does appear to darken the wood quite a bit, as a stain does. The intent of this thread is to show drums that ave not been stained in any way and look as natural as possible. On the other hand, you have to treat the wood somehow to preserve it and I would think any oil, even a clear one, will darken the wood somehow.

I don't know much about woodworking/ What's the diference between an oil and a stain exactly? Does a stain protect and preserve the wood too?
 
This does appear to darken the wood quite a bit, as a stain does. The intent of this thread is to show drums that ave not been stained in any way and look as natural as possible. On the other hand, you have to treat the wood somehow to preserve it and I would think any oil, even a clear one, will darken the wood somehow.

I don't know much about woodworking/ What's the diference between an oil and a stain exactly? Does a stain protect and preserve the wood too?

No, a stain is just coloring, usually basically a watercolor or the same thing in an alcohol base. Oils seal and protect -- like tung oil, danish oil, linseed oil, teak oil, etc., and they will all have this kind of effect on wood, to a greater or lesser extent. Nothing terribly exotic, and used as finishes by themselves or with standard oil-based varnishes. Pretty much any time you look at fine furniture or cabinetry, that's what you're looking at. There are water-based finishes, most of which give a hazy blue cast to the wood. Sorry if I threw you off here, but this appearance change is perfectly normal and doesn't constitute re-coloring the wood. I'd venture to say that it has happened with almost every "natural" wood drum you've ever seen. If you saw a picture of any of the shells in this thread before they had a finish on them you'd see something radically different from the photos here. Raw wood isn't too exciting to look at -- just like in a lumber store. It's the finishing that makes it sing.

But if it helps, here's a basic steambent maple snare, with exactly the same finishing technique and materials. My guess is you'd accept this as a "natural" look.

EDIT:
I think natural wood calls for more exact building technique. You can't hide any boo-boos with stain.
Oh, and I'm not sure what sort of mistakes could be hidden with stain, but I don't sell drums with hidden mistakes. Just want to be clear about that. :) Even when I use stains, they're not there to hide anything.

And sorry -- didn't meant to hijack your thread with a discussion about finishing techniques -- only trying to respond to your doubts.
 

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