Makes a lot of sense to me I even advise on our website that just because it's exotic or expensive, doesn't mean it necessarily makes for a good drum. For example, we build our classic range from English ash. In woody terms, a fairly humble species, but it has exactly the characteristics we seek for that range. Same with padauk. Ok, a slightly more "exotic" wood, but still not "right up there" in terms of price. Again, padauk delivers precisely the characteristics we're looking for. In both cases, the wood species also works well aligned to the particular shell construction method.I want the look of exotic but the sound of simple, if that makes sense.
Thanks Andy, yes that Bloodwood can make me sound like Stewart Copeland. Has a strange characteristic, I installed the heads and there was no low - mid tuning, it went from nothing to high end instantly, very weird. I am liking the simple softer woods for sound. It is fun to build with exotics, but nothing beats the Elm, or Walnut for nice tone. Because of this I am venturing into exotic wood veneer. Will be a learning curve, but I want the look of exotic but the sound of simple, if that makes sense.
I look forward to seeing stave drums with veneers or *gasp* wraps. To my knowledge, no one has ever wrapped a stave drum, but it would certainly show that staves are becoming less freaky and exotic and more like any other drum, with a similarly wide range of sounds and materials.
Part of the problem and reason you haven't seen it is because the wood moves, making it nearly impossible to put a wrap or veneer on it for fear of it cracking....
So the shell expands and contracts? even in a stave shell? Or do the shell just settle under the pressure of the heads and hardware? I'm thinking about veneering a stave shell, that's why I ask
It shouldn't be a huge issue given that the moisture content is well-controlled in the construction process. Any change in humidity and temperature would have more probability of expanding or contracting a stave shell compared to a ply shell, though. A ply shell is barely wood any more after manufacturing, whereas a stave shell is much less processed.
Oooh- expensive, & heavy I love the honesty of the finish, as it proudly displays the obvious skill that went into this drum. Blackwood tension knob is a nice touch too.Here's one that I made for a local drum shop. It's a 14x6.5x5/16" thick blood wood with wenge keys and a beer tap throw with an African blackwood cap. Hand rubbed oil for the finish- that's it.
Oooh- expensive, & heavy I love the honesty of the finish, as it proudly displays the obvious skill that went into this drum. Blackwood tension knob is a nice touch too.
I made a stave shell by myself some years ago, and yes, they do expand significantly, especially when they are stored in a humid basement for example.. I ended up with a completely different sound, lol
I put some wax on the inside, it helps a bit and seems to retard the process where the wood is absorbing the moisture.
Stave builder, your snares look great! I am pretty sure they even sound like they look.
No affect on glue bonds. Once those bonds are made, nothing's getting in there. Accurate machining is the key to a good stave construction.Interesting, I had no idea stave expanded so much. I think regular applications of linseed oil or Watco could preserve the wood by displacing water and eliminating moisture-related swelling. On the other hand, I wonder what effect those oils have on the glue.
Don't put yourself or your drum down man, that looks beautiful!!! I love the colour of padauk, & I love the colour it ages to too. You'll find it will go gradually more brown over the years, but still retain that "burnt" glow.Yes, the wood is really that red. Only a clear protective coat applied. Truly unique intense sound...
Andy, I'm sure it's no Guru, but it'll have to do for now!
Here is a stave shell snare I drilled and assembled. I got the shell from Fierce Drum Co. (http://www.fiercedrumco.com) and hardware from Ego and Precision. The shell is 14x6.5 Padauk with maple re-rings... Yes, the wood is really that red. Only a clear protective coat applied. Truly unique intense sound...
Andy, I'm sure it's no Guru, but it'll have to do for now!
Only slight negative I can see is what appears to be minor lug splay, but that may just be the photo. In close up photo's with a standard point & shoot lens, it sometimes happens.
If I may make one suggestion, if you get the chance at some stage, try it with "S" hoops. IMHO, they go together beautifully.
Wow! Intense color, totally natural. Love it and good job on the finishing and assembly. If I may ask, what did the raw shell cost, how much for hardware, etc.? I have been thinking of doing something like this.
Also, what brand is the throwoff? I have one exactly the same I got on Craigslist and I love it, but there's no marking. Kind of like a Trick and infinitely adjustable.
If the lug splay is so slight that you're undecided whether it's there or not, then it's nothing to worry about. There's quite a bit of play in the holes on most triple flange hoops, & just that alone can cause the tension screw to wander outwards slightly.Thanks man. You're right, there may be a minor lug splay. Even in person, it's so slight that I'm still not sure! haha
How would you say the S hoop would act as opposed to the 2.3 triple flange?
Thanks man. You're right, there may be a minor lug splay. Even in person, it's so slight that I'm still not sure! haha
How would you say the S hoop would act as opposed to the 2.3 triple flange?
Thank you. I believe this shell was $230 shipped. Just contact Josh. Really good prices and build quality. He added the re-rings at no cost. I believe he has shells on ebay all the time too.
Concerning the throw-off, I believe it's just Ego Drum Supply brand. It's a great throwoff, as you said, because it holds its tension in any position.
Edit: I found Josh's ebay store here. It looks like the shells are cheaper than I thought. He also offers custom builds and layout/drilling. Great option for a DIY project.